Trouble in Paradise

It has been quite a while since my last post. I fell extremely ill after our kayaking trip (which i was halfway writing about), with what we initially thought was a bad case of the flu. All this happened just before, during and after Christmas, so needless to say, i was not having a very festive period.

The first few days were terrible. A very high fever (over 40 degrees), shivers, shakes, cough and severe joint and muscle aches. For a good 4-5 days, i was basically bedridden and unable to move much. I was self-medicating with paracetamol for the fever and drinking as much fluids as i could get inside me. However, once my nose and gums started bleeding, Rick and i both decided it was time to get some expert advice and went to the local community hospital.

The nurse did a quick dengue test, since i was exhibiting all the symptoms. It consisted of  tying a tourniquet around the top of my arm for 5 minutes. After 5 minutes, a red measle-like rash was clearly visible, and the nurse said that this indicated a 50% probability that i had dengue. She gave me some pills to take that we later found out was quinine, and therefore more suitable for Malaria. This was standard practice here at the hospital which sees many cases of the disease. The doctor more or less confirmed that i had dengue from all the symptoms and asked me to come back the following morning to do some blood tests.

The rash started on my legs and spread across my whole body.

When the blood test results came back, my platelet count was high, inconsistent with dengue, so we went to another doctor in the town who told us that i had salmonella poisoning or typhoid fever. Rick and i doubted this at first, simply due to the fact that i did not have any form of stomach pain or diarrhea. Two more blood tests later, we got confirmation that the second doctor was right. I indeed had typhoid fever, with symptoms that were identical to dengue! It was a relief to finally find out what exactly was wrong, and immediately started on a course of antibiotics.

It just shows how medicine is such an inexact science. My usually-sensitive tummy has been great ever since i arrived in Mexico. Admittedly, i haven’t been as careful as i should have, for example washing fruits and vegetables in tap water, washing my teeth in tap water and eating street food – the most obvious things not to do in Central America. Another theory is that i could have gotten both dengue and typhoid fever at the same time, but was already recovering from dengue by the time i did my first blood test. Whatever, i am happy to finally be on the road to recovery now and plan to be more careful, especially with water. The doctor said that even with the purified drinking water, which is what the locals drink (and we have been drinking so far), there have been cases of typhoid fever, so it’s boiled or bottled water from now on.

My view over the week.

Sailing with the Pirates of Bacalar!

A couple of days ago Rick and i finally decided to go sailing with a guy we had met while cycling around Bacalar when we first arrived here. The self-styled pirates Mikhail and Marious have an old restored sailing boat that they use to sail to various spots along the lake.

Our boat, the Megalodon, waiting to set sail.

True to its name, Megalodon, the prehistoric shark.

We started off waiting for 3 more people who were coming with us for the trip and chatted to Marious, a Polish guy who lives in Canada during the summer, and escapes the winters in to Bacalar. He started telling us about how he first came to Bacalar and used to do pirate sword fight re-enactments for events. I knew that Bacalar had a colourful history of piracy, but it was interesting to learn more, especially from someone with so much passion for the subject.

Captain Rick, taking over the helm of our boat!

When our 3 Mexican fellow sailors joined us, we were off. The plan was to sail to the other side of the lagoon to see the sun set. The place we were heading to is an old pirate channel, used by pirates in the olden days to sneak into the lagoon from the open sea and attack the town of Bacalar, an important trading hub for the pre-hispanic Mayans, then the Spanish. Unfortunately, the wind was not on our side, and as always, nature has the last word when it comes to sailing. We got a friendly tow from some Americans part of the way, and in the shallow areas, Marious simply jumped in, pirate-style, and pulled us along with a rope! We arrived at our destination just as the last rays of the sun were disappearing and everyone jumped into the water!

Getting towed by our friends on the lagoon.

Pulling us along, pirate-style!

Land ahoy!

In twilight, then in candle light we had some drinks and food and enjoyed getting to know each other. We found out that the Spanish actually blocked the pirate channel with a gate, the foundations of which could still be seen. We also found out that the town of Bacalar was built on the bones of many, many people, especially Mayans who were slaughtered by the pirates or the Spanish. When the stars came out, we pointed out the constellations as it was so clear. Eventually our captain suggested we head slowly over to a place which he called Bird Island. The wind was down so we basically drifted to our next anchor spot, where the only thing we could hear was the birds. Unfortunately it was pitch black, so we couldn’t see anything, but Marious told us that many species go there at night to roost.

Enjoying the water on the far side of the lagoon.

Jumping from this abandoned construction at the pirate channel.

Again, we all took this opportunity to jump into the water again. It was only waist-high so you could just wade around. At first we felt some rocks in the sand under our feet, but when we picked them up, they looked like dead coral, only they crumbled in our hands. One of the Mexican guys told us that these were in fact, not rocks or coral but dead stromatolites. Wow! Imagine holding something in your hands that is billions of years old? Truly a special moment for all of us. The birds, the water, the stars and the stromatolites.

Stromatolites.

We headed back after it started to get cold, and that was a whole new experience in itself as the wind had completely died. It took us hours on the boat, but i really enjoyed the calm and serenity. I could have been there, in the dark, under the stars the whole night! There is something special about floating on water in pitch black without a noisy engine, when all you can hear is your own heart beating as one with your surroundings. As we approached the town, we could hear various parties thrown to signify the end of the Mayan Long Count Calendar, but i think we were privileged to enjoy a truly magical evening, and a magical way to usher in a new era. So here’s to the start of another Mayan Long Count, which signifies a higher consciousness among mankind, leading to more peace, spirituality and understanding among people..

Peace and calm over the natural part of the lagoon.

Our beautiful sunset!

Manipulation Strategies.

All around the small town of Bacalar, there are messages scrawled on the walls that give you an insight into the minds of its inhabitants. Most of the messages are eco-related, urging people to go back to nature and take care of their surroundings but this one especially caught my eye…

Roughly translated, this means:

Manipulation Strategies:
Distraction, keep attention away from the real social problems, captivated by issues without real importance.
Keep people busy/occupied with no time to think.
Back to the farm with the other animals.

Something to ponder upon…

A Short Piece of History

Rather than delve deep into history and what the Spanish and pirates did to the local indigenous people here in Central America, I’ll let this harrowing painting do the talking…

A picture tells a thousand words. Mural at Casa de Cultura, Bacalar.

Colonization takes all shapes and forms, but for me, this mural summed up the hardship that indigenous people all around the world have been subjected to and hit me where it hurts the most.

Bacalar

3 1/2 hours south of Tulum is the 60km-long Bacalar Lagoon. We had seen photos of it and had heard that it was a place that was laid-back, quiet and beautiful. Just our type of place. Cancun and Tulum were nice, but too crowded to enjoy at our own pace.

Bacalar, Magical Town.

The 2nd-class bus ride was pretty uneventful. As we proceeded south along the coast, the scenery got more rural, with people selling pineapples at the side of the road, another reminder of home. The place where we stopped was just at the side of the main road, and i was beginning to think that perhaps we had got off at the wrong place until the driver confirmed that we were indeed in Bacalar town. It was dusty and didn’t look like much, just a row of shops. Rick went off to look for a room while i waited with the backpacks at the side of the road.

Bacalar Town.

Bacalar Town.

When Rick finally came back to fetch me, and we had walked what felt like a couple of kilometers into the town towards the lagoon, we arrived at our hotel, yes, a hotel (Posada de la Nueva Esperanza).. huge room, shared but clean toilets/showers and really nice people running the place. Admittedly, the hotel was not on the lake, but it was quiet and close to the main Plaza.

Heading down to the lake to watch the sunset and the stars come out.

Bacalar was named a “Pueblo Magico” in 2006, and its easy to see why when you walk down to the lagoon. Crystal clear shallow waters separated from the Caribbean sea by mangrove forests are a sight for sore eyes. The lagoon is referred to as the Lagoon of seven colours due to the different tones of azure that can be seen due to the concentration of minerals in different parts of the lake. The lake also has what could be the largest living organism on earth, Stromatolites, which are responsible for the oxygen in the atmosphere which sustains life as we know it.

The clear waters of the Bacalar Lagoon.

Can you spot the 7 shades of azure in the lagoon?

Still amazed at how clear the water in the lagoon is.

The naturally protected lagoon of Bacalar was famous for being sacked by pirates in the 17th century. An anthropologist, from whom we rented our bicycles told us that because of the pirates, men in Bacalar are the ones who still shop at the market, and not the women, which is virtually unheard of in the rest of macho Mexico! The women still stay at home while the men go shopping, presumably to avoid the roving eyes of the pirates in the olden days. The Fortress de San Felipe Bacalar was completed in 1729, to protect the town from pirates and has been impressively restored.

Fort of San Filipe.

A tortilla-making machine at the market. It rolls and cuts the dough and bakes the tortillas too. Amazing contraption.

About 4kms from the town is the Cenote Azul (or Blue Cenote) which is also thought to be the biggest/widest/deepest cenote in the region. We had a great time swimming in its cool, clear waters after a sweaty and tough (well for me it was tough) bike ride.

The huge Cenote Azul.

The clear blue waters of the Cenote Azul.

Picnic at the side of the road after visiting Cenote Azul 🙂

So far this place has been truly magical. From swimming in the clear waters of the cenote and the lagoon, to the many interesting friends we have made in such a short time. The locals are friendly, laid back and very family oriented. Even the light here shines differently..

Temazcal

Yesterday when we were cycling around Bacalar, we went to check out the local Balneario, a place where the local people can come and enjoy a swim (there are amenities such as shower and toilets), kids have a park to play (with a water slide), people can eat at the restaurant there, etc. Well you get the picture, it’s basically a community recreational centre for the whole family.

While we were having a look around, we noticed a group of indigenous people camping at an area at the side and a sign for Temazcal so we went to ask about it. A couple of months ago, a friend of a friend held a Temazcal in a rural part of Valencia and invited us but we could not make it. So we sort of knew what it was, and since we had missed out the first time, we decided to come back the next day (today) for the experience.

Our new brothers and sisters and the area where they were living.

A Temazcal  is a type of sweat lodge which originated with pre-Hispanic Indigenous peoples in Mesoamerica. It continues to be used today in Indigenous cultures of Mexico and Central America for spiritual and health reasons. It is currently being recovered by all sectors of society in that part of the world and is used as a cleansing of mind, body and spirit. The Temazcal represents a mother’s womb and the pit in the center where the burning stones are placed, the belly button.

The Temazcal is usually done in a permanent structure but the group that performed our Temazcal, Centro de Medicina Tradicional Tutuyapa were away from their centre and had erected a makeshift tent as a Temazcal. First, we had to change into swimwear, but women were advised to cover up from the waist down as we would be sitting on the ground. I wore my sarong as it was already wet from covering up after swimming in the lake earlier. Before entering the tent, we were cleansed with lovely-smelling copal tree smoke. I was asked to remove all my jewelry as i was told they could burn me if i left them on.

The sweat lodge tent/ Temazcal.

We then all squeezed into the Temazcal. Entering, we had to crawl in a clockwise direction. Same if you were leaving the tent. Not to stand but to slowly crawl out. There were about 25 (i think) of us in the tent so it was a bit of a squeeze, but it is acceptable to touch the person next to you. We first went round introducing ourselves and telling everyone why we were doing the Temazcal and what we wanted out of it. I went ahead and spoke in English since i couldn’t do it in Spanish and Rick translated for me.

Next, the stones were brought into the Temazcal and placed in a pit located in the centre. Volcanic stones are used as they are safe because they do not explode from the temperature. Everyone then welcomed the stones, 13 in each session (we had 4 sessions). More copal and herbs were put onto the burning stones then splashed with water until the whole tent was full of smoke. It was like being in a very cramped sauna and the temperature was almost unbearable. We were constantly told to take deep breaths and inhale the smoke to give us strength and get rid of the negative feelings we had inside from the past. We sang, chanted and shouted together, and even if you don’t know the lyrics or understand the song, you are encouraged to just vocalise together with the group. I found this a bit weird at first, but later, when i participated, i found that it was a way to get out all those pent up stresses, or negative feelings that had been inside for so long. The key is to keep breathing, and keep breathing deeply.

Volcanic stones, referred to as abuela or grandmother.

The fire (referred to as the father) heating up the volcanic stones for the next Temazcal.

We had 4 sessions and the participants were asked whether they wanted to go outside in between sessions for fresh air. The leaders of the Temazcal told us that they believe the stones/piedra were the ‘grandmother’, fire, father and earth, mother. If the heat got too much, we were asked to lay our heads on the earth for relief. I felt overwhelmed by emotions during the ceremony, thinking about past losses and couldn’t stop the tears from flowing freely. The aim was to get it all out and release yourselves from past pain. The Temazcal helps you to connect with your inner self. It is a forgiveness and acceptance ceremony. So the emotions are bound to flow.
After the 4th session, i literally felt like i couldn’t handle any more. We went outside and we were approached by one of the elder ladies who asked Rick and i to come with her to the lake. There she cleansed me with the water and after telling her why i was so affected (with Rick translating for me), she told me to close my eyes and visualise the colour purple with golden sparks. Strangely, this calmed me down. As i was getting cold in the lake, we went back to the group to sit by the fire.

At the end of it all i felt completely drained. Of course i could feel the physical benefits that sweating profusely had given me, but emotionally i felt drained and that a huge burden had been lifted off my shoulders.As for connecting with my inner self, i had a similar feeling to that i had after finishing my silent meditation retreat, i did feel as if i knew myself a little more than i did yesterday..

Offerings. Also the place where we placed our donation.

Stromatolites, the earliest life form discovered on earth.

Stromatolites are microorganisms that provide some of the most ancient records of life on Earth by fossil remains which date back more than 3.5 billion years ago. They are ancient and said to have caused the first mass extinction in the world, simply by creating oxygen on a large scale in the earth’s environment.

The biggest living Stromatolites in the Bacalar Lagoon, just near the rapids. Awesome to be able to see these amazing organisms up close and in in such a pristine environment.

We are currently in Bacalar Lagoon in the southern Yucatan Peninsula. We found out today that in addition to the breathtaking shades of azure (the lagoon is said to have seven shades of blue), this lagoon also contains an extensive formation of living stromatolites. The stromatolites here are 10kms long rising vertically up to  several meters in some areas.

Can you believe that we are in the presence of what may be the oldest and largest sized living organism on Earth. Knowing this makes Bacalar Lagoon even more magical.

A small stromatolite that was part of many scattered in the sand where we went for a night swim (far side of Bacalar Lagoon). They crumbled in our hands and we were told that these ones were dead.

Cenote De Las Calaveras

After visiting the ruins, we cycled back into Tulum town for lunch and found a tiny restaurant selling cheap Yucatan food called La Palapita Yucateca. I have to say that i enjoyed my lunch here immensely and that this was the best meal that i have had since we arrived in Mexico. The chicken soup (i had a bad tummy) was absolutely divine and just what the doctor ordered.

The delicious chicken soup at La Palapita Yucateca.

After recharging, we mounted our bikes again and headed towards Coba (another Mayan ruin) to see our first Cenote. Cenotes are the surface connections to subterranean water bodies. They are believed to be connected by underwater rivers and the water is extremely clear (average visibility of 100ms) as it has filtered through the limestone. There are many cenotes dotted around the Yucatan peninsula and a few along the road to Coba.

Clear waters in the Cenote de las Calaveras.

We cycled about 2kms to reach the closest one to Tulum, Cenote de las Calaveras (Cenote of the skulls). It was named after the 120 skeletons found there aged from about 200AD and found well preserved. It seems that the Mayans used the cenotes as burial grounds… hmmm luckily i only found this out after swimming in one. We literally had the place all to ourselves and the cool water felt so good after all that cycling. It was a bit creepy swimming in what was essentially a cave, especially when you could hear the bats and not see them.

Me at the Cenote. This was the biggest opening but there were smaller ones dotted around the area.

Since the sun sets about 6pm, we had to head back before it got too dark. We would have perhaps stayed in Tulum to do more if our budget had allowed it, but we both decided it was best to head south and further away from the crowds of tourists. Eventually we decided to head to Bacalar, over 3 hours south of Tulum and situated next to the Bacalar Lagoon.

The Mayan Ruins at Tulum

Famous for its beach side cabanas set on powdery white sand, Cenotes and Mayan ruins, Tulum is also divided up into 3 areas, Tulum pueblo (town), Tulum Playa (beach) and the archeological site of Mayan ruins.

One of the beaches among the ruins, which is also an area where turtles lay their eggs. No swimming allowed here.

Tulum is one of the earliest resorts in Mexico, offering a place of worship and solitude for the Mayan Kings, clergy and Gods in early times. The tropical beach backdrop is the main attraction of this picturesque, much-visited small ruin on the shore of the Caribbean Sea. We rented some bicycles and cycled the flat 2.5kms to the Mayan ruins after breakfast. It was a very easy ride as there is a bike lane that leads you to the ruins.

Our transportation.

We soon realised that this was a bad idea as our arrival coincided with busloads of tourists that had come for day trips from Playa del Carmen or Cancun. We should have followed the advice in the Lonely Planet and arrived much earlier, but oh, well. It was really packed with tourists from every country imaginable (didn’t see or hear any Malaysians though).

The crowds at the Tulum archeological site.

As we explored the ruins we could appreciate why the early Mayans picked this beautiful place to relax. The ruins are situated on cliffs overlooking the sea and it is said that the first rays of the sun hit the Tulum ruins first, before the rest of Mexico. There were various ruins dotted around a relatively small area and surrounded by a thick wall on 3 sides (the forth side is the sea). The temple, was impressive and we overheard the guides saying that during the spring and summer solstices, the sun will shine directly through the temple’s door.

The temple at the Tulum archeological site.

The palace at the Tulum archeological site.

One of the ruins built atop a small cenote.

One of the many raised platforms in the site where the Mayans would erect buildings made from perishable materials.

The ruins at the Tulum archeological site were home to hundreds of iguanas basking in the sun. Many of them had scales missing from their tails.

There is a small beach where you can swim in the archeological site but the sea was a bit rough and the beach was packed so we gave it a miss and headed to Tulum beach itself, situated adjacent to the archeological site.

The crowded beach at the Tulum archeological site.

The beach was beautiful, although the weather did not do it justice. The sand was the finest that i have seen, and that turquoise green sea that we enjoyed in Cancun was just the same here (minus the concrete hotels). There is a barrier reef just off the beach but it was a bit too far to swim, and too rough when we were there.We had met a couple who had rented basic beach side cabana for the same amount as our hostel room, but they had limited electricity and no internet connection, which Rick needs for work.

Tulum beach.

Tulum

After a 2 1/2 hour bus ride from Cancun, we arrived at the small town of Tulum. While i waited at the bus station with our backpacks, Rick went to look for a room. We had done a bit to research the previous day and found a few places to check out.

Unfortunately, this being peak season, we had to stay in a hostel that was over our budget, Casa del Sol, but it was the cheapest available that Rick could find. The room we had was nice, the bathrooms looked like they had just been cleaned when we arrived, which was nice. However, this was not the case the next day.  They looked liked they were constructing more rooms and the work continued into the middle of the night. Funnily this did not affect us as we were exhausted the two nights we slept there. Crappy breakfast and inconsiderate guests talking loudly in the wee hours of the morning didn’t really bother us as we were thankful just to have a room. Sometimes its difficult to blame the establishment when the guests staying there do not clean up after themselves in the common areas.

Casa del Sol, our hostel in Tulum for 2 nights.

Tulum town basically straddles the main road that leads south to Chetumal, the capital city of Quintana Roo and the town itself is pretty uninteresting. As always it is cheaper to stay and eat in the town as compared to staying in a cabana on the beach. In Tulum, the beach is easily accessible with a bike lane that runs parallel to the busy highway.

The main road that separates the town of Tulum. Now dressed up with Christmas decorations.

One of the murals in Tulum educating children on turtles.

As i finished writing this blog about Tulum, i realised that it was way too long to fit into one post so i have decided to split it into three.. Happy reading!

Riding our bikes back to Tulum.