Khajuraho to Chitrakoot. Riding through Madhya Pradesh.

We set off early from Khajuraho, knowing that the surrounding roads were undergoing massive construction, and the first stretch was, as expected, difficult-going. Bumpy dirt roads stretched on for kilometers and we were frequently covered in dust each time a truck passed us by! Despite the bad roads, it was a beautiful day, and taking the route suggested to us by the locals, we were soon passing through more of Madhya Pradesh’s beautiful countryside interspersed by its bustling rural towns.

Crossing one of Madhya Pradesh’s many rivers.

Stopping for a break in the shade on the way to Chitrakoot.

Many people have asked us about our experience on Indian roads. I can’t speak for Rick, my amazing driver, but he has said that he spends more time avoiding potholes, people, animals and other vehicles than enjoying the scenes passing us by. I, on the other hand, was lucky enough to see everything we passed.

So here’s a video i took of our last stretch through Madhya Pradesh. We had just stopped for something to eat and were riding through a typical rural town on our way to Chitrakoot.

 

Khajuraho.

The road trip from Sanchi to Khajuraho was a long one. We got soaked in some rain along the way, and by the time we started seeing signs for Khajuraho,  we were exhausted. We checked out a few places to stay and in the end got a good price for a room at Hotel Surya, an established place right on the main street of Khajuraho.

Coming into Khajuraho, after a long day’s ride from Sanchi.

The main street in Khajuraho.

Hotel Surya’s pretty garden, viewed from our balcony.

Once we had recharged after a good rest, we took the bike to explore the surrounding area. We visited the small village next to the touristy town, and found that there were a few temples located outside the main temple site (that you had to purchase entry tickets for) that were absolutely deserted. The countryside outside the town was so serene, in contrast to the roads to get there which were under construction and in very bad condition.

The first temple we visited, Vamana Temple, dedicated to the Vamana (dwarf) reincarnation of Vishnu.

Enjoying the serene countryside around Khajuraho.

The fact that the small town of Khajuraho has its own airport was telling. The Khajuraho group of monuments attracts visitors from all over the world with its incredible array of intricate nagara-style architectural symbolism and erotic sculptures that adorn each and every temple. The temples in this UNESCO world heritage site are both Hindu and Jain and were built between 950 and 1050 CE by the Chandela dynasty, who established their capital in Khajuraho.

The main group of temples in Khajuraho, a popular tourist destination.

Originally, it is said that the Khajuraho temple site had a total of 85 temples by the 12th Century, spread over 20 square kilometers, but today only 25 survive. The largest and most important temples of the Khajuraho group of monuments are located in an enclosure easily accessible on foot from the town. We spent a whole day slowly wandering around the well-manicured area, taking in the sculptures for which Khajuraho is famous for. Most of the temples are built with sandstone, but a few are constructed with granite. They are beautiful examples of the Central Indian temple building-style revealing distinctive features. The structures are compact without enclosure walls and erected on a high platform.

The temples in Kajuraho are in various stages of restoration and are well maintained.

A sculpture of Varaha (Wild Boar), an avatar of Vishnu, which we also saw in the Udaygiri caves, near Vidisha.

An aeroplane on its approach to Khajuraho airport.

Khajuraho’s temples are famous for their erotic carvings.

Looking like a patchwork quilt. Some parts of the temples were made up of mismatched bricks and sculptures.

We took a break from the sun under this huge tree that looked like it was growing out of the stones.

Another temple view.

The intricately carved walls and distinctive roof of one of the temples.

The temples in Khajuraho are built elevated on a platform.

In the end, we spent a total of 4 nights in Kahjuraho. Although the bustling town was touristy, the surrounding area was very tranquil and serene. We made friends with a local guy who invited us for chicken curry at his place in one of the villages a few kilometers outside of town, but missed out on visiting the nearby caves, which we heard were very beautiful. We had decided that our next destination would be the small town of Chitrakoot, on the border between the states of Madhya Pradesh and Uttar Pradesh, and the perfect stopover before we reached Varanasi.

Our afternoon in one of the local villages.

Saying our goodbyes to the guys at Hotel Surya.

The Udaygiri Caves.

After visiting  the district museum in Vidisha and learning more abut the area, we were keen to see an early Hindu ritual site, the Udaygiri Caves, located 4 kilometers away. The 20 caves are formed in a U-shaped plateau beside the Bes river and are known for their rock-cut sanctuaries and images excavated into  a hillside in the late 4th and beginning of the 5th century BC.

The passageway leading to the rocky plateau.

The rocks looked as if water was once flowing on top of them.

Cows grazing on top of the plateau.

A figure of Vishnu resting at Cave 13.

Descending down to the other side of the cave complex.

A small shrine nearby.

One of the most important archaeological sites from the Gupta period, the Udaygiri Caves were commissioned by Chandragupta II, emperor of the Gupta empire. The most artistic sculpture is the monumental figure of Vishnu in his incarnation as the boar-headed Varaha. It depicts the cosmic story of the creation of order out of chaos.

The impressive rock sculpture of Vishnu in his incarnation as the boar-headed Varaha in Cave 5.

The earth goddess, Prithvi, emerging from the ocean.

A closer look at some of the components of this impressive sculpture

The views of the surrounding countryside from the top of the caves were pretty impressive. Greenery for as far as your eyes could see. We hardly encountered any other visitors when we were there so it was quiet and peaceful too. A nice spot to come and sit in silence for a while even if you’re not interested in the history.

The view of the nearby village surrounded by fields.

The Bes river surrounded by greenery.

Vidisha.

The bustling town of Vidisha is 9kms from Sanchi. It sits in the fork of the Betwa and Bes rivers, and was the capital city of the ancient Malwa kingdom. The Sanchi stupas are just some of the many Buddhist monuments constructed within a 20km radius of Vidisha and the area is rich in history. The emperor Ashoka’s wife was the daughter of a merchant from the town of Vidisha.

Some of the sweets on offer in Vidisha.

We decided to take a ride to Vidisha to explore the area and find out where the curious Heliodorus’ Pillar stood. However, when we arrived and took a break at a sweet shop we found, none of the locals we asked seemed to know about the Greek pillar. We were just across the road from the Vidisha District Museum, so we walked over to see if we could get some information.

This intricately carved boar is one of the interesting sculptures that greet you as you enter the museum.

Part of one of Ashoka’s Pillars.

A simple carved figure that looks as if it could come from another continent!

A beautiful sculpture of Vishnu.

This piece looked like it could have been part of a larger sculpture.

The museum turned out to be a gem. It houses some of the stone carvings and sculptures that have been found in Vidisha and the surrounding area and some of the pieces were in surprisingly good condition for their age. We spent over an hour slowly taking in all the fine stonework, tools and utensils that come from this part of Madhya Pradesh and were in awe of the intricacy of some of the pieces.

One of the oldest exhibits. This sculpture dates back to the 2nd Century BC.

Another sculpture dating over 2,000 years.

Hanuman.

A headless sitting Buddha.

Some of the many exhibits that have been recovered from sites around Vidisha.

All in all the visit to the District Museum in Vidisha was an educational one. After another chai stop, we continued on a few more kilometers to the Udaygiri Caves.

Stopping for a chai and some snacks before heading to the Udayagiri Caves.

Life on the road. A quick update.

It’s been about 9 months since my last blog post and in that time so much has passed that getting back into the habit of writing again seemed too daunting, that it didn’t happen. A mix between procrasination and laziness. Until now.

Our motorcycle ride through India and Nepal was an experience of a lifetime and is still fresh in our minds. The highs and the lows. Rick and i have seen high altitude landscapes that have left us in tears while filling us with renewed energy, and experienced the massive earthquake in Nepal last April that has left us grateful to be alive. In the end, we covered over 16,000 kms together on our Royal Enfield and i will pick up from where i left off in this blog in due time, hopefully!

Crossing Khardungla in Ladakh, India

After we had sold our motorcycle, we left India knowing that it was a special place that we would definitely return to in the future. Since then, we have spent time in Malaysia and Spain with family and friends, old and new. And here we are now, in Lanzarote in the Canary Islands, Spain, another beautiful island in another corner of the world.

Catching up with Alex and Neus, who were with us in Nepal during the earthquake.

Looking back, we have come so far since we started this journey together. Living each day as it comes and following the paths that have opened up for us in the process has given us deep experiences that we know we are privileged to carry with us today. And so the journey continues to take its course!

Surfer’s paradise in Caleta de Caballo, Lanzarote.