Quetzaltenango, or Xela

Our first taste of Guatemala had come with our interesting journey on the chicken buses, with our friends Renee and David. This organised chaos got us safely to where we were to spend our first night, Quetzaltenango. A sprawling city situated a chilly 2,400 meters above sea level, Xela, as it’s more commonly known would be the place that we started our experience in Guatemala. As Renee and David found their accommodation and Spanish classes under the same roof, we wandered off in search of a place to stay. We stumbled upon a gem of a place unimaginatively called ‘Hotel Quetzal’. We were immediately greeted by Juanita, the sweetest lady you will ever meet. Like a grandmother, she chatted away about the day’s chores and introduced us to Xela.

(L-R) Beatriz, Me, Juanita.

Pinyata at our place. It was Juanita’s 10 year old grandson’s birthday.

Not being the city-type, we didn’t immediately warm up to the place, but after a few days, we discovered a charm about Xela. The people, personified in Juanita, were friendly, and the city’s unique blend of huge neo-classical buildings alongside traditional alleyways and cobbled streets held its own magical feel. Its parks and views were pretty and although the Museum of Natural history was a bit dated, its exhibits were both interesting and had some of the most extensive Mayan relics that we had seen so far.

View of Quetzaltenango or Xela.

The theater. A huge building.

The courtyard in the municipal building.

The courtyard of the municipal building.

The main plaza.

The old facade of the church at the main plaza.

A pretty old house, in need of repair.

The cultural center where we saw the photography exhibition and music and poetry on Valentines day.

Exploring the city.

Narrow cobbled streets.

Hello puppy!

There was a fiesta (which looked more like a market) going on around one of the churches, that we visited when we explored further afield and got to know Xela. We tried some typical food called Pepian, as well as a myriad of roadside and market food. And on top of that the local Guatemalan beers such as Gallo, Cabra and Ice Dorada!

A local plate of Pepian chicken. Delicious!

A quick stop at the beer factory.

And a taste of the local brew, Gallo.

Ricardo + Alvarino = Riccarino!

It was cold when we arrived. The first morning it was a chilly minus 2 degrees. But the weather improved a bit and we kept warm either walking around or drinking a cup of hot chocolate. We explored, shared meals and drinks with Renee and David and generally took our usual slow approach getting to know this city.

Graffiti.

More graffiti.

More street art.

Pretty orchid.

Quetzaltenango Municipal coat of arms.

After few days though, Rick and i both decided we needed to move to somewhere smaller, in more natural surroundings and took a bus directly to San Pedro La Laguna on the banks of Lake Atitlan.

Our bus to San Pedro La Laguna, Lake Atitlan.

Its Been 2 Years.

Me at my workstation in 2009. My last day in an office: 16th February 2010.

I cannot describe just how much my life has changed over the past 2 years since i quit the rat race and a so-called ‘conventional’ life. Looking back at my blog posts, i recall how difficult it was for me to take that first step and quit my comfortable job for a life of the unknown.

Now, after 2 years of completely changing my mindset, my lifestyle and my inner belief system, i feel like i have grown in leaps and bounds as an individual. Of course sacrifices have been made along the way, but i have experienced so many priceless moments. I’m calmer, more relaxed, more positive and generally a happier person. And best of all, i have TIME to enjoy every single moment in the present. Each day, i count myself lucky that i have been given this opportunity to live my life the way i want to.

Thank you Rick, you have shown me that there is an alternative and better way to live my life.

Me today. A picture paints a thousand words.

Our First ‘Chicken Bus’ / Camioneta Experience

After passing through immigration in La Mesilla, our first mission was to withdraw some Guatemalan currency, Quetzals. Yes, the same name as the beautiful bird, whose tail feathers have been used as ornate decoration since the Mayan era. We walked uphill past rows and rows of shops selling everything you could think of. Very similar to the border in northern Thailand with Burma. When we finally found a bank/atm machine, Rick could not withdraw any money. We walked to the next bank, and luckily his card worked this time. By then, i was already sweating like crazy from carrying my backpack, so we asked people where the bus station was to catch our bus to Quetzaltenango also known as ‘Xela’. Apparently there were two bus terminals, so we headed to the nearest one.

We were directed to a place not too far away, where a bus was already being filled ready for departure. However, we stopped to discuss the possibility of taking a direct bus and decided that that would be a better option for us as we wouldn’t have to change buses and it we would arrive faster to Xela. We hopped onto a tuk-tuk (yes, they also have them here, just like the ones in Sri Lanka and India) and arrived at the other bus station only to find out that the bus to Xela had left and the next one was only scheduled to depart at 8pm, it being a Sunday. So back onto the tuk-tuks and to the first bus station.

It was hot, noisy and confusing and i couldn’t imagine organising this trip with my limited Spanish at all. Luckily for us Rick is a native speaker and he found out from the bus driver that there was no direct bus to Xela. We would have to go to Huehuetenango (these names need a bit of getting used to), which would take two hours, then change bus to finish the journey to Xela (another two hours). Our backpacks were loaded up onto the roof, and we climbed inside our first ‘chicken bus’.

Our first ‘chicken bus’.

Prior to arriving in Guatemala, we had read in various places about the so-called ‘chicken buses’. It is pretty hard to imagine how they really are before you actually experience getting on one.They are old American school buses that have been re-calibrated (i think) and re-decorated in bright and colourful designs, usually with a religious caption on them. The name comes from the fact that sometimes live animals are transported on these buses, like what i used to see in my home town of Sibu, Sarawak when i used to live there (i even saw gunny sacks containing squirming, squealing pigs being loaded on!) so i thought, i was prepared. We set off, and everything was fine, paid our fare (Q20 each) to the conductor, and everyone was safely seated. But we soon found out that the driver was a maniac! He drove so fast along the winding road to Huehuetenango and just kept on stopping to pick up passengers, even though there were no more empty seats. In the end it was 3 to a seat (or more) and the aisle so full of swaying passengers that the conductor had a hard time passing through to collect fares.

A closer look at the decoration on the front. This one looked pretty new.

After two hours, we stopped at a junction and were herded out of the bus only to collect our backpacks and run across the road to another waiting bus. No time at all for a toilet break! We re-loaded our backpacks on the roof and boarded the second ‘chicken bus’, and this time, we were the ones standing in the aisle with the conductor shouting at us to move further to the back. Many locals were laughing at us, so we must have looked really awkward, but it was funny i suppose. People got on, got off, and eventually i managed to get a seat squeezed between two boys. No personal space whatsoever (which is usually a big deal for me) but i was just happy just to be seated relatively comfortably.

In the end i was happy we had this experience. By the time we reached Xela, we were all talking about how pampered we have been so far in Mexico, even in Malaysia with our executive-style coaches and air-conditioning. Here, for many Guatemalans, this is the only means of transportation between towns, so who are we to complain? We smiled at the locals (me), had some conversations (Rick) and played with the kids sitting in the seats in front of us. It was a good start to traveling Guatemala and gave us a taste of what to expect. I like the fact that these recycled vehicles are not just thrown on the scrap-heap but are reused for people who really need them. They are full of character, just like this country we have just begun to experience.

Border Crossing: Mexico to Guatemala

The night before we had decided to leave Comitan to cross the border, we made friends with an American couple, Renee and David, who were staying in the room next door to us. Coincidentally, they were also planning to leave the following day, so we made plans to do the journey together. We figured, safety in numbers!

We woke up relatively early on the 10th February, a Sunday, and after grabbing a quick breakfast of mole tamales and hot chocolate from the main plaza, we picked up our backpacks and headed towards the main boulevard to catch a collectivo to Cuauhtemoc, the last town before the border in the southernmost part of Chiapas. Cuauhtemoc is part of the municipality of Frontera Comalapa and is situated on the Guatemala-Mexico border opposite the city of La Mesilla, Huehuetenango, Guatemala. The journey was very comfortable and took us only one and a half hours. We were dropped off just outside the Mexican immigration checkpoint, so we went to check with the officials about a payment that we had heard that we may have to pay.We had tried to get some information online about a fee of 295 pesos that some people had to pay when leaving the country, however the information on various websites was unclear. Some people said it was a border scam. Others claimed that it was official, while other information stated that if we came into Mexico by air, it would have had already been billed into the price of our flights.

We were informed that after November 2012, all visitors who have spent more than 7 days in Mexico would have to pay this 295 pesos (or US$24) upon leaving the country as it was no longer billed into flight prices. This amount was payable at the bank, and a receipt had to be presented to the immigration officials before they stamped your passport. Conveniently, there was a bank just next to the immigration building, and it was open on Sunday for the sole purpose of collecting this fee.

The Guatemalan border.

After our passports were stamped, the four of us caught a taxi to the Guatemalan border town of La Mesilla. It was strange that the two immigration checkpoints were quite a distance between each other, and that ‘no-mans land’ was a few kilometers. When we arrived at the Guatemalan immigration checkpoint, you could immediately feel a difference. It was less clinical, and looked a bit messy. However, we could feel the warmth radiating from the Guatemalans. Even the usually strict-looking border officials were friendly and accommodating.

Welcome to Guatemala!

Welcome to Guatemala!

El Chiflon

After our easy day at the Lagos de Montebello, Rick and i decided that it would be a shame to miss out on seeing the waterfalls at El Chiflon. We had briefly read about the waterfalls in the guide but did not really know what to expect. Located 34 kms west of Comitan de Dominguez and in the Tzimol Municipality of Chiapas, it was easy to just jump into a colectivo to get there. In contrast to the long, straight road that we took to the lakes the previous day, the road to El Chiflon wound around the mountains. The views of the stunning scenery were fantastic as again, we  enjoyed another clear day.

Luckily we had told the colectivo driver to stop us at El Chiflon, as the waterfalls are not visible from the main road at all. When we alighted at our destination, there was just a dusty pathway and a few stalls selling food. We walked a couple of meters and saw the river, a light blue, turquoise colour, something i had never seen before. There were two ecotourism centres on either side of the river, but we went to the main one called “El Centre Ecotouristico Cadena de Cascadas El Chiflon”.

Our first view of the San Vicente river from the side of the main road.

Trees growing right in the middle of the river.

As we walked up the pathway (and passed by a few more restaurants and places to stay), we got to the gate, where we paid a 30 peso entry fee to the Ejido San Cristobalito, the cooperative who have been running this place for more than 12 years. Further up we realised that this money was well spent as the facilities in the area were very well organised and maintained. We first arrived at an information centre, explaining the significance of the waterfalls and how they were formed, then to a place where we could see huge iguanas sunbathing next to the river. Further up, past the shops and refreshment areas, there were picnic areas arranged next to the area of the river where swimming was allowed.

The swimming area.

Not wanting to waste time and raring to go, we passed by this area and started the incline up to the waterfalls. El Chiflon is actually a chain of 5 waterfalls which originate from the San Vicente River. We found out that the bright blue colour of the water was actually due to the colour of the sediment on the riverbed. In the rainy season, the river turns into a swirling brownish colour and is very dangerous to swim in, but now, in the dry season, it is possible to swim in the designated areas and enjoy this amazing light blue water.

The first waterfall, “El Suspiro”.

“Ala de Angel”

The trek uphill was not an easy one, especially for me, as it had been a while since i had really done some serious exercise. We had to stop several times to catch our breath. However, the reward was magnificent. The first part uphill leads you 1268 meters past the two relatively small waterfalls of “El Suspiro” (25m) and “Ala de Angel”(30m) before you arrive at the roaring “Velo de Novia” or ‘Bride’s Veil’ which falls from a staggering height of over 120 meters. This was truly a spectacular view. We got drenched by spray when we got to the viewing platform, and you could really feel nature’s power up close as you watched the water tumbling down.

The awesome power of the highest waterfalls at El Chiflon, “Velo de Novia”, over 120m high.

Another view of “Velo de Novia”.

Rick enjoying the spray at the “Velo de Novia”

The second part of the trek took you up a much steeper dirt path to two more waterfalls (“Arcoiris” at 53m and the highest one, “Quinceanera” at 60m)  situated a further 860 meters on. This part was very difficult but we made it to the top without giving up. Perhaps that’s why i felt that the highest waterfall, “Quinceanera” was the most beautiful! We met a few local people on the way up, most notably a large group of locals Jehova’s Witnesses, who were from a town only an hour away from the waterfalls but were visiting for the first time.

The difficult climb up.

The climb up enabled us to have clear views of the surrounding mountains. I got a bit of vertigo though and couldn’t look down.

One of the higher waterfalls, Arcoris”.

The highest waterfall at El Chiflon, “Quinceanera”, over 60m high and an uphill trek of over 2kms to reach.

After our descent, we stopped for our lunch of bread, tinned salsa sauce and advocado. We needed to replenish our energy! Rick came prepared to swim and although i regretted not coming prepared for a dip, in the end, the water was too cold for either of us to jump in anyway. Once evening fell, we made our way out of the area back towards the main road to wait for a colectivo to get us back to Comitan, to spend our last night in Mexico, exhausted but impressed by this natural wonder.

Lagos de Montebello

We had wanted to visit the Lagos de Montebello (or Lakes of Montebello) while we were in San Cristobal de Las Casas but had decided against going; firstly as the tour from there was quite costly, and secondly as we had met a French couple who had visited the area but the visibility/weather was so bad when they went, that they couldn’t see any of the lakes. So if you are reading this, Marie and Alexandre, i hope you enjoy the photos that we took!

The main road we took between the lakes and the lookout point. Pretty quiet.

Since we were in Comitan de Dominguez, and the weather was fantastic during the day, we decided to try our luck and visit the lakes. It was also possible to take much cheaper public transport from Comitan, which was a breeze. The Lagos de Montebello area is 47 kilometers from Comitan and on the border with Guatemala. We had been told by many people to make sure that we left the area before 5pm as the roads would not be safe after then.  Since we knew we would be hiking/walking from lake to lake (the area has over 50 lakes spread out over the area, with around 8 of them accessible by road or dirt tracks), we decided to choose which ones we really wanted to see, bearing in mind the limited time we had.

We decided to by-pass the first group of lakes that you get to by road. These included the Lagunas de Colores (Lakes of Colours), and the huge Lago Bosque Azul (Blue forest Lake), and is where most visitors choose to visit as there are many amenities such as guides, food stalls and souvenir shops. Instead we visited another group of lakes a few kilometers down the road and nearer to the Guatemalan border.

We saw some beautiful flowers along the way. The temperate forest in this area is known for its orchids.

The colectivo stopped us right next to La Canyada, said to be one of the prettiest lakes in the area and we were not disappointed. The lake almost joins at its far side, with a small opening leading to other lakes and (we heard/read) a couple of cenotes (sinkholes) nearby. The colour of the lake ranged from a deep blue to greenish-turquoise in different areas, and so was pretty impressive to see from our vantage point above. When we went down to the side of the lake, we could see just how pristine and clear the water was. Swimming was allowed but the wind in these highland forests was chilly, so we decided to give it a miss.

La Canyada, at Cinco Lagos with its tiny opening in the distance leading to other lakes. Our first stop.

The rafts at the waters edge were made from tree trunks tied together.

La Canyada is part of  Cinco Lagos (Five Lakes), all situated closely together, so afterwards, we hiked up the dirt track that lead us back out to the main road and managed to find a good viewpoint to see one of the neighbouring lakes in the area. We attempted walking down to the lakeside through a very narrow and overgrown pathway, but gave up half way as it started to get difficult and we knew we had much more walking to do.

The second lake we saw at Cinco Lagos. We managed to find quite a good vantage point down the dirt track.

The overgrown pathway that we tried following down to the lakeside, but gave up half way.

Instead, we headed out to the main road and walked to a ‘mirador’ (lookout point) overlooking Lago Tziscao, the largest lake, the southern end of which is situated in Guatemala. While we were there, Rick helped a Mexican family to take a group photograph, and later, this family gave us a ride back down the road to Lago Pojoj.

Lago Tziscao on the border with Guatemala from the lookout point. You can see the town of Tziscao on its edge in the distance.

I had read that Lago Pojoj was a bright cobalt blue colour, but when we arrived there, it was just the same colour as the other lakes that we had seen which was a bit disappointing. Perhaps the lighting was not right at that time of the day. Furthermore, there were a couple of tourist coaches that had just dropped off a busload of passengers at the lakeside. A big contrast to the silence and solitude at the other lakes that we had visited earlier. This lake had a small island in the middle and the tourists piled onto makeshift rafts made from tree trunks tied together and were ferried to and from the tiny island. We managed to find a quiet place away from the crowds to have our lunch (some sandwiches we had prepared before our trip), and amused ourselves by watching the people coming and going.

Lago Pojoj. You can just about make out the tiny island in the middle of the lake in the distance.

The wind started to pick up and it started to get a bit cold, signalling that it was time to start making our way back to Comitan. We packed up our makeshift picnic and walked out to the main road. We didn’t have to wait too long for a colectivo to drive by and pick us up, which was nice. I was exhausted from walking around 6 kms that day, but happy that i had felt fit enough to do it without feeling faint or shaky. This meant that finally i was on the road to recovery from that terrible bout of typhoid fever, for good!

Comitan de Dominguez

It was extremely difficult to leave San Cristobal de Las Casas after spending 3 weeks there. We had become so comfortable in the place we were staying but eventually the time came to say ‘goodbye’. The biggest decision that we had to make was whether to take a tourist transport direct to one of the Guatemalan towns around Lake Atitlan, or whether to make the journey on our own. We eventually decided to make the trip on our own and first travel to Comitan, a town 90kms south of San Cristobal and much closer to the border. We had already inquired about our bus journey the previous day, but when we arrived at the station, we were informed that all buses plying the route to Comitan were not running as there was a demonstration blocking the road. We then proceeded to one of the colectivo stops and were told that yes, the road to Comitan was blocked but we could take a combi/colectivo to the blockade, get off, walk through the demonstration area, and get on another colectivo on the other side. It would cost slightly more, but since we had already made the decision to leave, we decided to go anyway.

Traffic was backed up for a few kilometers, so the only way through the blockade was to proceed on foot.

We passed by this agave plantation while walking through the blockade. For all of you who have never seen where tequila comes from, it’s made from this cactus-type of plant.

There were several organisations from Comitan blocking the main road entering the town on the highway demonstrating against rising electricity and petrol prices (among others). They had blockaded part of the road a few kilometers out of town so that vehicles on both sides were jammed up as far as our eyes could see. When we arrived, some people had just deserted their cars in search of shade and food. We disembarked and walked a kilometer or so to the other side of the blockade where colectivos were backed up waiting for passengers. It all looked pretty organised. No violence, no shouting, no angry drivers. Just people trying to work their way around a bad situation.

Comitan de Dominguez, Pueblo Magico.

These signs are all over town. The pedestrians have priority here!

When we arrived in Comitan town, it was a bit of a hike into the centre to look for accommodation as the roads are pretty hilly. We checked-out three posadas (or inns), before we found Posada Las Flores, a small, homely, clean place with a pretty little courtyard.

The pretty courtyard at Posada Las Flores.

After leaving our bags in our room, we decided to explore a little of the town. We had read that Comitan was an old colonial town that had been named a ‘pueblo magico’ so we knew that it would be special, just like Bacalar and San Cristobal de Las Casas. When we got to the main plaza we could see why. The plaza was buzzing and was a charming sight of perfectly groomed trees and sculptures. People were actually using the plaza to congregate in the evening and there was a marimba band (a ‘marimba’ is a percussion instrument, a type of xylophone) setting up on the stairs of the town hall getting ready to play live music later in the night.

The main plaza in Comitan de Dominguez with its flat-topped trees.

One of the sculptures in the main plaza.

The town hall.

The marimba.

We walked further and saw some really beautiful churches such as the Iglesia de Santo Domingo and other churches and buildings not even mentioned in our guidebooks. We had not expected much of Comitan, and so were pleasantly surprised at how friendly the people were and how pretty the town was. While here, we took the opportunity to visit two of the beautiful natural wonders that were situated in the area, the Lagos de Montebello and the massive waterfalls at El Chiflon. All in all, it ended up being a wise choice to make the stop in Comitan.

Iglesia de Santo Domingo

Another pretty church.

Yet another pretty church!

The courtyard in the Casa de Cultura.

We also met an American couple from California, Renee and David, who were staying at our Posada and had also planned to cross over to Guatemala the same day as us. We had heard of some border scams and corruption going on at the Mexican side, so we arranged to make the trip together.

Farewell Los Camellos

Hostal Los Camellos has been our home in San Cristobal de Las Casas for almost 3 weeks now. We arrived here by chance and immediately fell in love with the place. As you move around from place to place you start to develop a sixth sense about places and immediately feel the vibration of a place the moment you walk in. Positive or negative.

Our beautiful room in Hostal de Los Camellos.

Rick at our very own ‘bar area’

Common area at Hostal de Los Camellos.

My usual activity when the sun comes out!

That’s how it was for us and Los Camellos. We didn’t come across this place in our guide or through any internet research, but as soon as we saw our room, we knew the place was for us. The massive, well equipped kitchen was a bonus for us too as we were getting a bit tired of eating tacos and tortas and wanted to sample more local vegetables and fruits. Later, we found out, through the multitude of French travelers passing through, that this hostel came highly recommended in the French guides (hence the multitude of French travelers!). After deciding to leave several times, we changed our minds, and in the end, stayed much longer than we imagined we would. As the hostel was celebrating its 10th Anniversary on the 2nd of February, we decided to stay and join in the celebration with these people who had already become our friends.

Celebrating the 10th Anniversary of Hostal Los Camellos.

Yummy Mexican barbeque during the celebration.

So as we leave, we would like to say a big ‘Thank you’ to Los Camellos for treating us well. Both to the people working there and also the interesting people that we have met who were also staying there with us.

Rick with Fabian, the owner.

San Juan Chamula

Situated about 10 kms from San Cristobal de Las Casas, and at an altitude of 2,200 meters, San Juan Chamula is surrounded by rolling hilltops and agricultural land.  We had heard of this town and its weird and wonderful church, so when a Canadian couple, Megan and Curtis, who had driven all the way down from Canada invited us to jump in their car and take a ride with them to this town we hopped in. This was only the second time we had left the town of San Cristobal de Las Casas after staying over 2 weeks.

San Juan Chamula is inhabited by the indigenous Tzotzil people, descended from the Mayans.The town enjoys an autonomous status in Mexico and no military or police are allowed in the village. When we arrived, we had to park outside the main town as it was Sunday and market day, and there were many people in the streets. We had read and been warned that the locals did not like photos to be taken in their town, so all cameras stayed in our bags. I couldn´t resist taking one of the church facade though, just a quick snap while no one was looking!

The church of San Juan in San Juan Chamula, Chiapas.

The church of San Juan is a must-visit sight in San Juan Chamula and the primary reason for our visit. As we approached the church compound, we could feel something was amiss as there were groups of families sitting around and drinking alcohol. The locals practice a blend of Catholicism and pre-conquest Mayan customs and beliefs, which makes for a very interesting sight. We paid our 20-peso entrance fee and entered into the Church. As our eyes adjusted to the relative darkness, the multitude of flickering candles and the smell of burning copal was overwhelming. There were no pews as in a normal Catholic church, and the floor was completely covered with pine needles. Groups of families were seated on the floor around burning candles chanting and praying and the side walls of the church were covered with little statues of saints. Groups could be seen passing around pox (pronounced ‘posh’), a local alcoholic beverage made from sugar cane, with children also partaking. We had heard of chickens being used as sacrifices inside the church, but even without this, the whole atmosphere was heavy. Here was a group of people, persecuted and oppressed for years, laying out their hopes and prayers in front of us – an image that will stay with me for a while yet.

Follow Our Route

So far we have been traveling for 59 days and have covered a distance of around 1,500 kilometers here in Mexico. We have been moving pretty slow, all things considered, getting stuck for more than two weeks in both Bacalar and San Cristobal De Las Casas.

Our journey so far. I couldn’t get the map any bigger than this, but you get the idea.

So briefly, our trip has taken us through these following places:

A : Cancun, Quintana Roo then through Tulum, Quintana Roo

B : Bacalar, Quintana Roo

C : Chetumal, Quintana Roo

D : Xpuhil, Campeche

E : Escarcega, Campeche

F : Campeche, Campeche

G : Palenque, Chiapas

H : San Cristobal de Las Casas, Chiapas

From time to time i will update our journey and hopefully get better at plotting in the map and resizing it :p