Chitrakoot.

The trip from Khajuraho to Chitrakoot stretched over 200 kilometers, and when we finally reached Chitrakoot, we started asking for directions to Ram Ghat. The locals in Khajuraho had recommended a guesthouse there that we were assured would suit our budget. We found the place easily just asking around, and although we had a very basic room, Pitri Smitri Guesthouse had a massive terrace literally on Ram Ghat right in the middle of the action! We had heard that Chitrakoot was a sort of “mini Varanasi” where it is possible to see pilgrims performing rituals, meditating and offering prayers on the banks of the Mandakini river.

A quiet moment in Ram Ghat on the banks of the Mandakini river.

Our parking spot above Pitri Smitri Guesthouse.

A view of Pitri Smitri Guesthouse and its terrace overlooking Ram Ghat.

We took the opportunity to get our dusty bike cleaned for only 30 rupees in Chitrakoot.

Yet another delicious thali.

Chitrakoot is a town in the Satna district in the state of Madhya Pradesh. Bordering the Chitrakoot district in Uttar Pradesh, it is known for its temples and religious sites mentioned in Hindu scriptures and is therefore an important pilgrimage site for Hindus. Chitrakoot means the ‘Hill of many wonders’ and it is nestled in the northern Vindhya range of mountains. It is said that Ram, Sita and Lakshman spent 11 years of their 14 years of exile in the forests of Chitrakoot. They are believed to have bathed in the Mandakini river, lending this small town huge religious importance for Hindus.

Morning crowds performing puja at Ram Ghat.

A massive statue of Hanuman in Chitrakoot.

Cows taking a break along Ram Ghat.

We spent a couple of nights in Chitrakoot, visiting a few temples and mainly just spending time taking in the sights along the Mandakini river, which was surprisingly clean considering the number of visitors converging there on a daily basis. For a pilgrimage site, it was surprisingly tranquil, and we had a great time with the owner of the guesthouse, Varun, who also happened to be a Hindu priest.

A beautiful building on the other side of the river.

A closer look at the colourfully-decorated boats.

Quiet time at a nearby temple.

In some places the Mandakini river was like a mirror.

The tranquil side of Chitrakoot.

Despite being a major pilgrimage site, Chitrakoot was very serene.

After a couple of days, we had to get moving towards the border with Nepal, as the days on our visas were ticking away, but Chitrakoot is definitely on the list of places that we would love to return to and spend more time there.

Farewell to our friends from Pitri Smitri Guesthouse.