Setting Off Again.

It has been a while since my last entry, both in terms of actual time and distance as well as who we are as individuals (if that makes any sense). We ended up spending a year in India and Nepal on our gorgeous Royal Enfield motorcycle, surviving a massive earthquake. Our experience in that part of the world changed us. We grew a bit more, became a bit more sure of ourselves and how we are living our lives, and our experience gave us a thirst for more independence while moving around.

Fast forward a couple of years and we are now in Spain. We bought our van a year ago and spent 3 months living in it while traveling through Galicia (north west Spain) and exploring Portugal from north to south, which was an amazing experience, and spurred us on to thinking about living this way, long term.

Yesterday was our first day  on the road again. As usual, we have no fixed schedule and will be taking it one day at a time. For us, this has been our travel style from day one, as has traveling on a tight budget. This time though, we aim to be in Sweden by midsummer, which falls at the end of June, so we need to adjust the pace at which we move (usually we are very laid back).

When we set off from Puzol, Valencia, it was the hottest part of a scorching day. After a long and cold winter, the weather in this part of Spain has improved tremendously so it was high time to pack up and get going again.

All packed up and ready to hit the road again!

Giving the van a good wash before setting off.

Since Rick has a job now, we are always mindful of setting aside some quiet time for him to concentrate on his projects. It takes some discipline to focus on work, especially when you are living on the road and have so many new things around you every day. We took it slow and our first stop was only about 50 kms north along  the Mediterranean coast, Benicassim in Castellon. Since it’s off-season there were not too many tourists and the beach was nice and breezy. We ate our lunch, then while Rick worked for a while in the van, i took a walk along Benicassim’s long beach.

First stop, Benicassim beach for lunch.

Walking along the boardwalk in the quiet side of Benicassim beach.

Later, we decided to head further along the coast to the next town, Oropessa, where the massive holiday village of Marina D’Or is located. We found a parking spot in between the town and the holiday village right opposite the beach and were treated to the beautiful sight of the full moon rising from the Mediterranean.

Our parking spot for the night, opposite the beach in Oropessa.

Full moon rising from the Mediterranean sea.

We had a fairly good night’s rest, although it takes some time to get used to sleeping in a new environment, sometimes in places where there are people walking by outside. We had breakfast in a small cafe on the beachfront close to where we were parked for the night then made our way towards Tarragona, where our friends Juan Carlos and Esther have a house.

A shady spot in the park surrounding the Ermita de San Cristofol (San Crostofol Chapel) in El Perello, where we took a break from the road.

Rick, taking the opportunity to review some work under a massive pine tree.

Lunch under the trees.

We knew it would take some time to adjust back to living in the van, but so far, it looks like we have gotten off to a good start. It feels great to finally be back on the road, deciding our next destination as we go along, day by day, waking up to a new world outside our windows every morning.

 

 

 

 

 

Chitrakoot.

The trip from Khajuraho to Chitrakoot stretched over 200 kilometers, and when we finally reached Chitrakoot, we started asking for directions to Ram Ghat. The locals in Khajuraho had recommended a guesthouse there that we were assured would suit our budget. We found the place easily just asking around, and although we had a very basic room, Pitri Smitri Guesthouse had a massive terrace literally on Ram Ghat right in the middle of the action! We had heard that Chitrakoot was a sort of “mini Varanasi” where it is possible to see pilgrims performing rituals, meditating and offering prayers on the banks of the Mandakini river.

A quiet moment in Ram Ghat on the banks of the Mandakini river.

Our parking spot above Pitri Smitri Guesthouse.

A view of Pitri Smitri Guesthouse and its terrace overlooking Ram Ghat.

We took the opportunity to get our dusty bike cleaned for only 30 rupees in Chitrakoot.

Yet another delicious thali.

Chitrakoot is a town in the Satna district in the state of Madhya Pradesh. Bordering the Chitrakoot district in Uttar Pradesh, it is known for its temples and religious sites mentioned in Hindu scriptures and is therefore an important pilgrimage site for Hindus. Chitrakoot means the ‘Hill of many wonders’ and it is nestled in the northern Vindhya range of mountains. It is said that Ram, Sita and Lakshman spent 11 years of their 14 years of exile in the forests of Chitrakoot. They are believed to have bathed in the Mandakini river, lending this small town huge religious importance for Hindus.

Morning crowds performing puja at Ram Ghat.

A massive statue of Hanuman in Chitrakoot.

Cows taking a break along Ram Ghat.

We spent a couple of nights in Chitrakoot, visiting a few temples and mainly just spending time taking in the sights along the Mandakini river, which was surprisingly clean considering the number of visitors converging there on a daily basis. For a pilgrimage site, it was surprisingly tranquil, and we had a great time with the owner of the guesthouse, Varun, who also happened to be a Hindu priest.

A beautiful building on the other side of the river.

A closer look at the colourfully-decorated boats.

Quiet time at a nearby temple.

In some places the Mandakini river was like a mirror.

The tranquil side of Chitrakoot.

Despite being a major pilgrimage site, Chitrakoot was very serene.

After a couple of days, we had to get moving towards the border with Nepal, as the days on our visas were ticking away, but Chitrakoot is definitely on the list of places that we would love to return to and spend more time there.

Farewell to our friends from Pitri Smitri Guesthouse.

Khajuraho to Chitrakoot. Riding through Madhya Pradesh.

We set off early from Khajuraho, knowing that the surrounding roads were undergoing massive construction, and the first stretch was, as expected, difficult-going. Bumpy dirt roads stretched on for kilometers and we were frequently covered in dust each time a truck passed us by! Despite the bad roads, it was a beautiful day, and taking the route suggested to us by the locals, we were soon passing through more of Madhya Pradesh’s beautiful countryside interspersed by its bustling rural towns.

Crossing one of Madhya Pradesh’s many rivers.

Stopping for a break in the shade on the way to Chitrakoot.

Many people have asked us about our experience on Indian roads. I can’t speak for Rick, my amazing driver, but he has said that he spends more time avoiding potholes, people, animals and other vehicles than enjoying the scenes passing us by. I, on the other hand, was lucky enough to see everything we passed.

So here’s a video i took of our last stretch through Madhya Pradesh. We had just stopped for something to eat and were riding through a typical rural town on our way to Chitrakoot.

 

Khajuraho.

The road trip from Sanchi to Khajuraho was a long one. We got soaked in some rain along the way, and by the time we started seeing signs for Khajuraho,  we were exhausted. We checked out a few places to stay and in the end got a good price for a room at Hotel Surya, an established place right on the main street of Khajuraho.

Coming into Khajuraho, after a long day’s ride from Sanchi.

The main street in Khajuraho.

Hotel Surya’s pretty garden, viewed from our balcony.

Once we had recharged after a good rest, we took the bike to explore the surrounding area. We visited the small village next to the touristy town, and found that there were a few temples located outside the main temple site (that you had to purchase entry tickets for) that were absolutely deserted. The countryside outside the town was so serene, in contrast to the roads to get there which were under construction and in very bad condition.

The first temple we visited, Vamana Temple, dedicated to the Vamana (dwarf) reincarnation of Vishnu.

Enjoying the serene countryside around Khajuraho.

The fact that the small town of Khajuraho has its own airport was telling. The Khajuraho group of monuments attracts visitors from all over the world with its incredible array of intricate nagara-style architectural symbolism and erotic sculptures that adorn each and every temple. The temples in this UNESCO world heritage site are both Hindu and Jain and were built between 950 and 1050 CE by the Chandela dynasty, who established their capital in Khajuraho.

The main group of temples in Khajuraho, a popular tourist destination.

Originally, it is said that the Khajuraho temple site had a total of 85 temples by the 12th Century, spread over 20 square kilometers, but today only 25 survive. The largest and most important temples of the Khajuraho group of monuments are located in an enclosure easily accessible on foot from the town. We spent a whole day slowly wandering around the well-manicured area, taking in the sculptures for which Khajuraho is famous for. Most of the temples are built with sandstone, but a few are constructed with granite. They are beautiful examples of the Central Indian temple building-style revealing distinctive features. The structures are compact without enclosure walls and erected on a high platform.

The temples in Kajuraho are in various stages of restoration and are well maintained.

A sculpture of Varaha (Wild Boar), an avatar of Vishnu, which we also saw in the Udaygiri caves, near Vidisha.

An aeroplane on its approach to Khajuraho airport.

Khajuraho’s temples are famous for their erotic carvings.

Looking like a patchwork quilt. Some parts of the temples were made up of mismatched bricks and sculptures.

We took a break from the sun under this huge tree that looked like it was growing out of the stones.

Another temple view.

The intricately carved walls and distinctive roof of one of the temples.

The temples in Khajuraho are built elevated on a platform.

In the end, we spent a total of 4 nights in Kahjuraho. Although the bustling town was touristy, the surrounding area was very tranquil and serene. We made friends with a local guy who invited us for chicken curry at his place in one of the villages a few kilometers outside of town, but missed out on visiting the nearby caves, which we heard were very beautiful. We had decided that our next destination would be the small town of Chitrakoot, on the border between the states of Madhya Pradesh and Uttar Pradesh, and the perfect stopover before we reached Varanasi.

Our afternoon in one of the local villages.

Saying our goodbyes to the guys at Hotel Surya.

The Udaygiri Caves.

After visiting  the district museum in Vidisha and learning more abut the area, we were keen to see an early Hindu ritual site, the Udaygiri Caves, located 4 kilometers away. The 20 caves are formed in a U-shaped plateau beside the Bes river and are known for their rock-cut sanctuaries and images excavated into  a hillside in the late 4th and beginning of the 5th century BC.

The passageway leading to the rocky plateau.

The rocks looked as if water was once flowing on top of them.

Cows grazing on top of the plateau.

A figure of Vishnu resting at Cave 13.

Descending down to the other side of the cave complex.

A small shrine nearby.

One of the most important archaeological sites from the Gupta period, the Udaygiri Caves were commissioned by Chandragupta II, emperor of the Gupta empire. The most artistic sculpture is the monumental figure of Vishnu in his incarnation as the boar-headed Varaha. It depicts the cosmic story of the creation of order out of chaos.

The impressive rock sculpture of Vishnu in his incarnation as the boar-headed Varaha in Cave 5.

The earth goddess, Prithvi, emerging from the ocean.

A closer look at some of the components of this impressive sculpture

The views of the surrounding countryside from the top of the caves were pretty impressive. Greenery for as far as your eyes could see. We hardly encountered any other visitors when we were there so it was quiet and peaceful too. A nice spot to come and sit in silence for a while even if you’re not interested in the history.

The view of the nearby village surrounded by fields.

The Bes river surrounded by greenery.

Vidisha.

The bustling town of Vidisha is 9kms from Sanchi. It sits in the fork of the Betwa and Bes rivers, and was the capital city of the ancient Malwa kingdom. The Sanchi stupas are just some of the many Buddhist monuments constructed within a 20km radius of Vidisha and the area is rich in history. The emperor Ashoka’s wife was the daughter of a merchant from the town of Vidisha.

Some of the sweets on offer in Vidisha.

We decided to take a ride to Vidisha to explore the area and find out where the curious Heliodorus’ Pillar stood. However, when we arrived and took a break at a sweet shop we found, none of the locals we asked seemed to know about the Greek pillar. We were just across the road from the Vidisha District Museum, so we walked over to see if we could get some information.

This intricately carved boar is one of the interesting sculptures that greet you as you enter the museum.

Part of one of Ashoka’s Pillars.

A simple carved figure that looks as if it could come from another continent!

A beautiful sculpture of Vishnu.

This piece looked like it could have been part of a larger sculpture.

The museum turned out to be a gem. It houses some of the stone carvings and sculptures that have been found in Vidisha and the surrounding area and some of the pieces were in surprisingly good condition for their age. We spent over an hour slowly taking in all the fine stonework, tools and utensils that come from this part of Madhya Pradesh and were in awe of the intricacy of some of the pieces.

One of the oldest exhibits. This sculpture dates back to the 2nd Century BC.

Another sculpture dating over 2,000 years.

Hanuman.

A headless sitting Buddha.

Some of the many exhibits that have been recovered from sites around Vidisha.

All in all the visit to the District Museum in Vidisha was an educational one. After another chai stop, we continued on a few more kilometers to the Udaygiri Caves.

Stopping for a chai and some snacks before heading to the Udayagiri Caves.

Around Sanchi.

Sanchi town was basically a commercial area on both sides of the main road that passes through this part of Madhya Pradesh. It is located 46kms from the city of Bhopal in the Raisen District, and is the site of the Sanchi Stupas, one of which, the ‘Great Stupa’is said to be the oldest stone structure in India, dating from the 3rd Century BC.

The Grand Stupa at Sanchi.

We found a room in a hotel that was recommended by the Lonely Planet guidebook, but to be honest, there isn’t much choice in Sanchi. There were a couple of other budget options near the railway station but once we had arrived, we were lazy to check around. In the end, our basic guesthouse became quite comfortable,even though the bed was rock hard! We had a nice rooftop where we could relax and watch the sun set, and a proper car park for the bike.

The beautiful sunset from our rooftop on the evening we arrived in Sanchi.

Sanchi town from above.

Our days in Sanchi were spent walking around the peaceful World Heritage Site and its interesting museum as well as exploring the surrounding area (including the historical town of Vidisha and the Udaygiri Caves) on the bike. The countryside was stunning; fields of green and yellow interspersed with quiet little villages. We met a few locals and other travelers and after an interesting stop at Sanchi, it was time to get back on the road.

The impressive rock sculpture of Vishnu in his incarnation as the boar-headed Varaha at the Udaygiri caves.

Heliodorus’ Pillar, said to be given by a Greek ambassador here in the year 113 BC.

One of the quiet little villages around Sanchi.

A traditional stone house with cow dung drying on it’s roof (it’s used as cooking fuel).

A typical village house.

Young cow and buffalo calves.

A quiet spot by the Bes river.

One of the local restaurants in a village outside the town of Vidisha.

More delicious Indian food!

Saying our goodbyes.

The Ahilya Bai Holkar Fort and Palace, Maheshwar.

Before we arrived in Maheshwar, we had no idea who Rani/Queen Ahilya Bai Holkar was. Once we had started to explore the area of Maheshwar that borders the river, we were in awe of the exquisite palace, fort and temples that Ahilya Bai Holkar built and reigned from during her esteemed life. The whole area is well cared-for and provides information on the late daughter-in-law of Maharaja Malhar Rao Holkar. When her husband died in battle, Ahilya Bai Holkar prepared to follow him onto the funeral pyre, but her father-in-law entreated her not to do so as he personally could not do without her and that the state needed her even more.

The palace of Ahilya Bai Holkar, the daughter-in-law of the founder of the Holkar Maharajas of Indore.

The courtyard and its surrounding palace is well maintained and cared-for.

Ahilya Bai Holhar is revered for her diplomatic skills and for renovating and rebuilding various important Hindu shrines and temples around India.

A painting of Ahilya Bai Holkar.

Making friends in the courtyard of Ahilya Bai Holkar’s palace.

It was a pleasure to wander around the fort.

Looking from the walls that stretch from the palace right down to the river.

Such is the testament to the part that Ahilya Bai Holkar played in Indian history. So much so the Airport and University at Indore are named after her (among various other institutions). She ruled with great diplomatic and administrative skills and ensured equal treatment for her subjects regardless of religion. Her Ahilya Bai Holkar Trust still owns and manages the various shrines that she rebuilt and endowed, most notably the Vishwanth Temple in Benares.

A short walk down from the palace leads you to a beautiful temple complex decorated with intricate stone carvings.

The carvings seem to come alive from the stone.

The temple houses various shrines.

An interesting shrine inside the temple.

There are lots of beautiful archways and windows dotted around the temple complex.

The carvings around the temple cover a wide range of themes and feature exquisitely-carved elephants and a mythical lion.

One of the quiet courtyards around the RajaRajeshwar temple.

The areas around the temple are pretty and well cared-for.

Some of the floral motifs that have been carved with a 3D effect.

For me, walking around the fort, palace and temples, it was incredible to think that this Indian woman capably ruled this part of the country and played an important part in preserving Hindu culture during the time of the maharajas. The beautifully maintained areas where many pilgrims come to pay their respects reflected a sophisticated attention to detail and cultural maturity. It was a pleasure to relax on the stairs leading down to the river and watch the sun set or watch pilgrims make offerings in the beautifully carved temples and shrines. Our daily walks along the Narmada river and through the beautiful fort added to the charm of Maheshwar.

Looking up at the fort from the riverside.

The stairs leading up to the fort from the river, decorated with flower petals.

Some of the beautiful handcrafted designs dotted around the temple stairs.

The huge main door at the top of the stairs decorated with hundreds of flowers.

The walls of the fort at night illuminated with candles.

Maheshwar, Madhya Pradesh.

Maheshwar  was only a short 13 kilometers from the NH3 highway turnoff and when we arrived, we immediately went to check the guesthouse listed under the budget section of the guidebook. We ended up staying since the room was clean, the bed was comfortable and you could fill up your own bucket with hot water for a shower. At 400 Rupees, Aakash Deep Rest House was value for money and even had a parking space for the bike.

The entrance to our guesthouse, Aakash Deep.

The quiet town of Maheshwar lies on the north bank of the Narmada River. It was the capital of the Malwa during the Maratha Holkar reign till 6 January 1818, when the capital was shifted to Indore by Malhar Rao Holkar III. Since the 5th century, it’s economy has been sustained by its long tradition of fine handloom weaving, producing its colourful Maheshwari saris.

Traffic congestion on Maheshwar’s narrow streets.

Donkeys in the street.

A cow roaming the backstreets of Maheshwar.

A calf on somebody’s doorstep.

Wandering around Maheshwar.

Many local people use the ghats for their daily chores.

Some of the many delicious Indian delicacies we discovered in Maheshwar.

Maheshwar was one of those places that we had a good feeling about once we started exploring our surroundings. The Ahilya Bai Holkar Fort overlooks the Narmada river and is surrounded by many interesting buildings. The ghats were busy but peaceful at the same time and the small town soon became home to us.

The stairs leading up to the fort from the river, decorated with flower petals.

A small temple near the fort.

Huge cows near a temple.

A colourful temple right next to the Narmada river.

The riverside comes alive during the day.

Candles illuminating the stairs at night.

A cultural performance on the bank of the Narmada river.

We ended up staying 5 nights in Maheshwar, longer than we had planned, just taking it easy and getting a good rest after our couple of long road trips. We decided that since the next leg of the journey would be mainly on highways, we could continue to avoid big cities and stick to the smaller towns of Madhya Pradesh that we had begun to fall in love with.

A long bridge that crosses the river a few kilometers outside Maheshwar.

A white temple atop one of the hills that surround Maheshwar.

Sunset over the peaceful Narmada river.

Crossing into Madhya Pradesh. The trip from Nashik to Maheshwar.

After an early start from Nashik, we easily exited the city on to the NH3 highway and cruised north-eastwards along smooth asphalt. The kilometers ticked away and before we knew it, we had crossed over from Maharashtra into Madhya Pradesh. It was one of the smoothest road trips that we had enjoyed so far in India.

Past all the roadside stalls selling grapes and raisins, the landscape started to open up and the fields growing onions and other vegetables extended to the horizon on both sides of the highway. Soon after, the scenery changed yet again to become more arid, brown and hilly. We stopped a couple of times for our usual chai breaks since the riding was so smooth, and by the time we reached the turnoff from the highway to Maheshwar, we had made good time.

Stalls selling grapes and dried fruits along the NH3 highway leading out of Nashik.

The landscape resembled something out of an old spaghetti western.

One of our chai stops along the way.

Crossing over from Maharashtra to Madhya Pradesh.